Detailed description of every option available in the pattern generator. Click the ? icon on a control to jump directly to its description.
silhouetteSelects the overall shape of the garment silhouette.
The primary decision about the garment's structural character — e.g. trapeze, flared, straight column, or fitted pencil. Changing the silhouette rebuilds the entire block geometry, so other options (such as flare_level) should be re-checked after switching. Each value may activate or deactivate other controls.
length_styleChanges the target garment length without switching to a different base block.
Selects between predefined lengths — mini, midi, maxi, etc. — that are safe for the given block. Unlike entering a raw measurement, the length chosen here is optimised for the proportions of the style. Does not affect width or flare.
flare_levelSets how strongly the silhouette opens toward the hem.
Controls how much wider the hem is compared to the upper body. 0 gives a straight block; higher values produce progressively more flared effects. In styles with a yoked skirt (e.g. empire) the flare applies to the lower section only. Very high values on narrow hips may need seam allowance adjustment.
flare_redistribution_presetChooses how the total flare volume is distributed across the skirt panels.
With the same total flare volume, it can be spread evenly across all seams, concentrated at the sides, or at front and back. This affects how the skirt falls and in which direction it opens while walking. The 'sides' preset gives a classic look; 'front-back' adds a slightly dramatic character.
hem_shapeControls the hem line behavior, from straighter to slightly flared.
Decides whether the hem runs horizontally (straight) or dips slightly at the front or back (asymmetric). The difference is subtle and does not change the overall length — it only corrects the optical proportions. Useful when the back or front of the style visually appears shorter.
hem_finishChanges the leg hem finish — single or double fold.
Affects the hem depth and therefore the visible leg length and how the trouser bottom behaves. A double fold gives a more formal, stable finish; a single fold suits lighter fabrics and relaxed cuts. The choice has implications when calculating the hem allowance.
styleChooses the main style within the same construction family.
Switches between variants that share the same upper or lower block but differ in key proportions or details. For example in a dress it might be the cocktail vs. casual version within the same silhouette. Switching activates or deactivates other controls tied to the chosen variant.
fitChanges the overall fit character of the silhouette.
Switches between relaxed (oversized), standard, and fitted (slim fit) cuts. Affects the overall ease of the entire block at once without needing to adjust individual measurements. The 'fitted' value creates a close-to-body feel without appearing overly tight.
fit_styleSelects the overall fitting style of the garment body.
Similar to 'fit' but offers more specific variants for a given model group — e.g. distinguishing between a straight and A-line skirt cut, or between relaxed and structured fit in shirts. Available values depend on the active model.
drop_levelSets how low the dropped waist sits.
In styles with a seam below the natural waist (dropped waist, empire) controls where exactly the horizontal seam sits. Moving it down brings the seam toward the hips; moving up brings it toward the natural waist. The change affects the proportions of both the upper and lower sections.
skirt_volumeChanges how much width and gathering is added in the lower part of the model.
Controls how much additional fabric is gathered or pleated in the skirt section. Higher values give a fuller, more fairy-tale effect; lower values — a more restrained, elegant one. In dropped-waist styles this option affects only the lower section without changing the bodice.
seam_originChooses whether the princess seams start from the shoulder or the armhole.
Princess seams can run from the shoulder line or from the armhole downward. The shoulder version gives a more classic, couture character; the armhole version — more sporty and modern. The choice affects the dart distribution and the shape of shoulder details.
sleeve_lengthChooses sleeve length without changing the garment body.
Switches between predefined lengths — sleeveless, short, 3/4, long — designed to pair correctly with the given armhole and cuff. The setting does not change sleeve width or armhole shape. Combined with force_cuff it allows precise control of the sleeve end finish.
sleeve_styleSelects the sleeve construction type for this garment.
Decides the sleeve type — standard set-in, raglan, kimono, puff, etc. Each type requires a different armhole and body construction, so changing this option may affect the availability of other settings. In multi-season models available types are limited to those compatible with the active base.
is_raglanSwitches between a classic sleeve and a raglan sleeve in the trench.
A raglan sleeve joins the body with a diagonal seam running from the armhole to the neck, eliminating the classic set-in armhole. It gives more freedom of movement and a distinctive sporty look. The change structurally alters the armhole and shoulder shape, so other armhole-related options may become unavailable.
is_wide_sleeveSwitches the sleeve to a wide, flowing variant.
Instead of a fitted sleeve the style gets a wide, draped or flowing form. This applies to the full sleeve length, not just the cuff. Affects the fabric volume and sleeve shape against the body — combined with sleeve_length it produces different effects (e.g. wide short = balloon, wide long = kimono/bell).
cuff_styleSwitches cuff finishing in the bomber jacket and similar styles.
Decides the sleeve end finish — ribbed cuff (elastic band), fitted cuff, lace finish, etc. The change affects sleeve length in the finished pattern since different cuff types have different depths. When force_cuff=true this option works together with a separate cuff piece.
force_cuffAdds a separate cuff piece at the sleeve end instead of a simple hem.
When active, the sleeve pattern ends at the hem line and a separate cuff piece is generated as an independent part to be sewn on. Useful when you want to use contrast fabric for the cuff or when the style calls for a special cuff shape. Disables simple sleeve hem folding.
armhole_depth_levelDeepens the armhole so the style layers more comfortably.
A standard armhole can be too snug to wear the style as an outer layer over a shirt. This option lowers the armhole bottom point, adding room for garments worn underneath. Higher values give a looser shoulder grip and more freedom of movement but may change the visual shoulder shape.
neckline_styleChanges the neckline character while keeping the same garment family.
Selects the neckline cutout shape — V, boat, square, turtleneck, etc. Each shape is optimised for the given block and requires no manual adjustment. Changing the neckline does not rebuild the shoulders or armhole — it only shapes the front and optionally the back neck area.
neckline_depthControls how deep the neckline opening falls on the chest.
Adjusts how far down the neckline drops — from barely visible to a deep plunge. Combined with neckline_style it gives full control over the neckline character. A very deep neckline on a smaller bust may require bodice_shaping adjustment to maintain a smooth line.
neck_finishChooses the neckline finish in knitwear styles.
In knitwear models (T-shirts, long sleeves) decides how the neck edge is finished — ribbed band, binding, raw edge, etc. Each type generates a separate piece (or not) and affects the final neckline depth once folded and sewn.
collar_styleChanges the collar family while keeping the same body block.
Switches between collar types — polo, classic lapel, sailor detail, Mandarin, etc. Each type changes the neck cutout shape and generates a separate collar piece. Does not change shoulder width or armhole depth. With collar_style='none' the body has a finished edge without a separate collar piece.
lapel_typeChanges the lapel type without changing the blazer base.
Decides the lapel shape and width in a jacket or blazer — notched (classic with a notch), peaked (sharp, pointing upward), shawl (rounded). The change is purely aesthetic and does not affect shoulder or armhole construction. Lapel width influences the overall impression of formality.
front_opening_styleSelects the type of front closure — buttons, zip, or open front.
Decides how the style closes at the front — button overlap, zipper, snap fasteners, or fully open front (e.g. cardigan). Each type generates different pattern pieces (facing, placket, zip allowance) and may affect the width of the centre front panel.
waist_levelSets how high or low the waistband sits relative to the natural waist.
Decides the waistband position — high waist (above natural waist), regular, low (hipster), or very low. The change applies to the full waistband section and affects the proportions between the upper and lower garment. In skirts and trousers a high waist gives a leg-lengthening effect; low — a casual character.
waistband_styleSwitches between a structured waistband and a soft elastic waistband.
A stiff interfaced waistband gives a structured, formal effect. An elastic waistband is soft, comfortable, and better for knitwear or relaxed styles. The choice affects how the waistband piece is generated. With an elastic waistband there is usually no fly and no clip-in pocket.
rise_styleControls rise height without rebuilding the whole leg shape.
Adjusts the vertical dimension of the front and back panel above the crotch line. A higher rise gives more coverage and a more vintage look; lower — a contemporary, casual character. This change is independent of the waistband height (waist_level). In fitted styles it also affects the feeling of support.
waist_reduction_cmFine-tunes the waist suppression in centimetres without rebuilding the full base block.
Allows adding or subtracting a specific number of centimetres from the default waist suppression. Useful when you want to fine-tune the waist shaping for your figure without changing the overall silhouette. Negative values decrease suppression (looser cut), positive values increase the waist indentation. Use carefully with large hip-to-waist differences.
body_lengthControls body length in knitwear and casual styles.
Controls the vertical dimension from the shoulder line to the bottom of the body. Used mainly in styles without a natural waist seam, where body length is the primary proportion parameter. Too short a body length in a dress may cause excessive riding up during wear; too long — an unharmonious appearance.
bodice_shapingAdds a small shoulder dart on the front panel for subtle bust shaping. Disabled by default — the shift dress intentionally has a boxy silhouette.
Useful for a larger bust or when the default straight block does not lay aesthetically on the chest. The shoulder dart is subtle and often invisible from the outside, but improves the front hang. Disabled by default — the shift dress intentionally has a boxy silhouette.
closure_styleControls the crotch closure style in the bodysuit.
In bodysuit and jumpsuit models decides the crotch closure construction — press studs, zipper, or permanently sewn seam. Press studs are most convenient for dressing/undressing; a zipper is faster but structurally more complex. The 'none' option creates an open cut (lightweight bodysuit without closure).
is_slimSwitches to a slimmer, more fitted silhouette variant.
The slim version reduces the standard ease and fits the block closer to the body. It does not change the construction base — it only globally reduces ease. Slim versions work best in stretch or slightly elastic fabrics. In non-stretch material it may restrict freedom of movement.
is_wideSwitches to a wider, more relaxed silhouette variant.
The wide version adds a global ease, creating a loose, oversized block. Works opposite to is_slim. Useful for styles intended as layering pieces or when preferring a minimalist, non-figure-hugging cut. Can be combined with certain other options but not with is_slim simultaneously.
shirt_lengthControls shirt length while keeping the same upper block.
Controls how far down the shirt hem sits. Short cropped shirt vs. standard hip-length vs. long reaching mid-thigh or knee. The choice affects both the side seam length and the hem shape (rounded, straight, with vent).
leg_fitControls how closely the trouser leg fits the leg.
Selects between fitted (skinny), straight, tapered, or flared leg. The change affects the side seams of the leg and width at different levels (thigh, knee, ankle). A fitted leg requires stretch fabrics or special crotch allowances. A flared version gives a classic, elegant effect.
leg_styleSelects the leg shape variant for trousers or shorts.
Similar to leg_fit but offers more model-specific variants — e.g. culotte, palazzo, jodhpur, etc. Available options depend on the active model. Switching may activate additional controls specific to the chosen leg style.
leg_lengthSets the length of the trouser or short leg.
Selects between predefined lengths — short, below-knee, 3/4, full length, etc. Lengths are calibrated for the proportions of the given model, so manual adjustment is rarely needed. Combined with hem_finish it affects the visible length after folding.
leg_widthControls the hem width of the trouser leg.
Directly controls the width of the leg hem edge, independently from thigh and knee width. Useful when you want to keep a fitted upper leg but open the hem (e.g. flare-bottom). Very narrow values on longer legs may require construction adjustment so the leg can be put on.
leg_openingControls the hem width in shorts.
Specific to shorts models. Decides how widely the shorts open at the hem — from narrow, almost fitted, to wide and loose. A wide opening gives a casual, summery look; narrow — a sporty or retro appearance. The change does not affect the hip cut.
ankle_fitControls how fitted or relaxed the silhouette is at the ankle.
Precise control of the last few centimetres of the leg, independent of the overall leg width (leg_width). Useful for slim-taper legs where you want to narrow more sharply at the ankle. With very narrow values make sure the leg is wide enough above to fit the foot through.
rise_balance_cmFine-tunes the vertical rise balance in shorts. Shift up when the front or back needs a little more height than the base block provides.
Shifts the vertical rise distribution between front and back. When the front is too flat or the back too snug, this adjustment allows correction without rebuilding the whole block. Positive values add height to the back; negative — to the front. Apply in small increments (0.5 cm at a time).
fly_styleChooses the fly variant in boxers.
In boxers and similar underwear styles decides the front opening form — classic fly with placket, simple opening without extra piece, or no fly. Each type generates different pieces to cut and differently affects the front panel cut.
has_pocketsAdds or removes front pockets in this style variant.
Pockets are structural elements that affect the front pattern and require additional pieces (pocket bag, facing). Disabling pockets simplifies the pattern and may make cutting patterned fabric easier. Side-seam or front pockets are generated as separate pieces.
side_pocketAdds or removes a pocket integrated into the side seam.
A side pocket is sewn into the side seam of a skirt, trouser, or dress. It is practical and nearly invisible from the outside. When enabled, the side panel pattern is modified to include the pocket facing; a separate pocket bag piece is also generated. In lightweight fabrics it may slightly bulk the side seam.
pocket_styleChooses the pocket type available for this model.
For models with multiple pocket options allows selecting a specific type — patch, seam-in, cargo, etc. Each type generates a different set of pieces and affects the external appearance. Patch pockets are easiest to sew; seam-in pockets require more precise cutting.
material_typeSelects the fabric type to optimize seam allowances and construction details.
Indicates whether you are working with a woven fabric or a knit/jersey. They differ in stretch, which affects the required seam allowances, finishes, and overall pattern dimensions. With stretch fabric the pattern may be intentionally narrower since the fabric will conform to the body. An incorrect selection may produce a pattern unsuitable for the chosen material.
grow_with_meAdds extra seam allowance so children can grow into the garment without re-cutting.
Specifically for children's models. The growth allowance is an extra 2–3 cm on key seams (length, waist, shoulders) that can be gradually let out as the child grows. Models with this allowance may look slightly larger than a standard size — this is intentional.
is_shortSwitches the style to its shorter length variant.
A toggle that shortens the model to a predefined shorter version. This may mean shortening the sleeve, top, overall length, or just the hem — depending on the model. Not the same as length_style which provides more granular control. The short version is designed as a separate, cohesive block.
is_longSwitches the whole style to a longer commercial length.
The counterpart of is_short for the longer version. Activates a predefined longer variant of the model — useful when you want a midi dress instead of mini, or a coat instead of a jacket, while keeping the same base. May activate additional options (e.g. full-length sleeve becomes available with the long model).
is_overbustSwitches to the overbust corset variant that covers the bust.
In corset or bodice models decides whether the top edge reaches below the bust (underbust) or above it (overbust). The overbust version requires additional bust shaping and more complex boning construction. It provides more support and fuller coverage.
coverage_levelControls how much the underwear or bodysuit covers.
In lingerie and bodysuit models specifies how much of the body is covered — from minimal to full coverage. Each level is a pre-designed block, not a simple scaling of one. Match to the intended use and aesthetic.
back_coverageChanges how much of the back the briefs cover.
Specific to briefs and panties. Allows transitioning between full coverage (full brief), bikini, thong, etc. The change structurally rebuilds the back panel — it is not just trimming an existing shape.
front_coverageChanges how much front coverage the thong has.
Specific to thongs and tangas. Controls the width and shape of the front panel — from narrow (thong) to wide. The change affects the fabric amount and the shape of the front pouch.
leg_cutSets how high the leg opening is cut in underwear models.
In briefs and panties decides how high up the thigh the leg edge runs. A high cut visually elongates the legs; a low cut gives a classic, wider appearance. This change works together with back_coverage — together they define the overall silhouette of the lingerie style.
support_levelChooses the support level in the soft bra.
Specifies the amount of structure and support in a bralette or soft bra. A higher level gives more structured cups and a wider band; lower — a softer, more bralette-like character. The change affects cup shape and the number of structural pieces.
strap_widthChanges strap width without rebuilding the whole cup or band.
Controls only the strap dimension — thin (spaghetti), standard, wide. Thin straps look delicate but may dig in with a larger bust; wide straps give more comfort and support. The change is independent of support_level.
underband_styleDefines how the underbust band is finished.
In bras and bralettes decides the bottom edge construction — thin band, wide structured band, or no band (free-cut). A wider band gives more support for larger busts. The choice affects the number of generated pieces and construction complexity.
has_gun_flapAdds the signature gun flap detail to the trench.
The gun flap is an additional panel attached to the chest that in original military trenches protected from rain and dispersed recoil force. Today it is mainly a decorative element. When enabled it generates an additional piece to cut and requires precise button placement.
vent_styleSelects the style of the hem vent or back slit.
A hem vent allows freedom of movement in narrow styles (e.g. pencil skirt, coat). Can be at the back, side, or none. A back vent is classic for formal styles; side vent — more modern. The change affects the side or back seam pattern pieces.
hood_depthAdjusts hood depth and the amount of room around the head.
A deeper hood gives more room for the head and additional face protection; a shallower one — sitting closer to the head, more aerodynamic and decorative. Depth also affects how the hood rests when pushed back. A very deep hood may require cord length adjustment.
regency_lengthSets the total length of the Regency gown from empire line to hem.
In Regency-style models (empire waist, high seam just below the bust) the length is measured from the underbust seam to the hem. Typical historical lengths are floor-length with a few centimetres of train. Shorter versions are contemporary reinterpretations of the style. Changing length also affects the calculation of gathering amount.
chemise_lengthSets the overall length of the chemise from shoulder to hem.
A chemise is a historical undergarment or basic shirt worn under a corset or directly on the body. Length can range from short (to the waist) through midi (to the knees) to long (to the ground). Historical chemises were usually long. Contemporary interpretations may be shorter for practicality.
petticoat_lengthSets the length of the petticoat from waistband to hem.
A petticoat adds volume under a skirt or gown. It should be shorter than the outer garment — usually by 2–5 cm. A petticoat that is too long will show beneath the hem. In historical ensembles a petticoat may have a decorative train or lace visible at the bottom of the outer gown.
petticoat_volumeControls how full and voluminous the petticoat is.
Decides the amount of gathering or tulle layers in the petticoat. High volume gives a full, fairy-tale effect; low — a barely noticeable silhouette enhancement. In layered styles (e.g. ball gown) high petticoat volume is key to the final effect. High volume requires more fabric to cut.
ease_adjustment_cmChanges the global construction ease of the entire block by the specified centimetres. Negative values reduce ease (tighter fit); positive — increase it (looser). Use only when you understand how ease works in the given style — incorrect values may produce a pattern too tight to wear or too loose to hold shape.
layering_allowance_cmEnlarges the block by the specified centimetres so the style comfortably fits garments worn underneath. Useful for coats and jackets worn over thicker sweaters. Insufficient layering allowance will result in pulling across the chest and shoulders.
shoulder_slope_adjustment_cmAdjusts the angle of the shoulder line. Positive values raise the shoulder end (less sloping); negative — lower it (more sloping shoulders). Useful when the standard block produces excess fabric at the shoulders or digs into the neck. Apply in pairs: change front and back together.
neckline_depth_cmPrecise adjustment of neckline depth in centimetres, independent of the predefined neckline_style shape. Allows exactly tailoring how far the neckline drops without changing its form. Use when predefined neckline depth options do not match your preferences.
front_back_balance_cmAdjusts whether the pattern has more length at the front or back. Useful when the style rides up at the front or hangs unevenly. Positive values add length to the front; negative — to the back. This adjustment is fundamental and affects the entire vertical layout of the pattern.
dart_balance_cmControls how the total waist shaping is distributed between front and back darts. Positive values move more dart work to the back (for figures with a more prominent rear); negative — to the front. Use carefully: too large a shift may distort the side seams.
bust_chest_balance_cmA subtle correction used when a shirt or blouse needs a bit more room in the back chest area (e.g. for broad shoulders) or a calmer front. Changes width distribution without widening the overall block.
empire_balance_cmIn empire bodice styles specifies exactly where the horizontal underbust seam sits. Useful when the standard empire line position falls too high or too low for your bust shape. Apply in small increments and always do a fitting before cutting.
back_hip_balance_cmCorrects the hip width distribution between front and back of a skirt or trouser without changing the total hip circumference. Positive values give more room at the back; negative — at the front. Helpful for figures with more prominent buttocks or a larger abdomen.
seat_balance_cmShifts or enlarges the seat area in trousers without changing the overall leg width. Helps when trousers are tight or wrinkle at the back around the buttocks. Positive values add more fabric at the back; negative values reduce excess.
thigh_balance_cmCorrection specific to the upper leg — thigh — without changing width at the crotch or hem. Useful for fuller thighs when the seat and hem already fit but the thigh needs a bit more room.
waist_suppression_cmAllows strengthening or weakening the waist indentation without affecting chest or hip width. Positive values increase suppression (more hourglass); negative values reduce it (more straight line). Useful when you want a more or less pronounced waist accent.
back_dart_layout_presetMaintains constant total back shaping but decides whether it stays in one dart or splits into two smaller ones. A single dart is easier to sew; two darts give a better-defined shape for fuller buttocks.
back_double_dart_ratio_presetWhen the two-dart layout is active (back_dart_layout_preset), this preset decides how the total work is split between both darts. More work in the dart closer to centre back accentuates the buttock curve; more in the side dart — smooths the side silhouette.
bodice_dart_transfer_presetDecides from which location (shoulder, side, waist) the front dart emerges. Preserves the total shaping effect once sewn, but changes the visual seam layout on the front. A shoulder dart is classic; a side dart — more modern and easier to press.
dart_distribution_presetMaintains constant total skirt waist shaping but distributes the work differently between side, front, and back. The 'classic' preset concentrates more work at the back; 'balanced' distributes evenly. The change affects the visual appearance and fit.
front_back_dart_balance_cmDoes not change the total waist indentation but moves some work between front and back. Positive values move more to the back; negative values reinforce the front. Use when one side (front or back) seems to need more or less shaping than the base block provides.